Is this the end?

Is this really how I am finishing my service? That last seven days have been the strangest combination of bad luck. Am I bringing it on myself?

It started last Friday with the iguana in my shower. Saturday was the robbery. Sunday, I realized around 2:00pm that the presentation papers for my HIV talk were at the collegio in an aldea. I needed to bring them with me that evening when I headed to Alice’s site to give the talk with her the next day. I re-made all of them in a slight panic. Monday, Alice and I gave the HIV talk to 9th graders and I can’t think of anything especially weird. Tuesday I shed my first few goodbye tears as one of my third grade classes said their goodbyes. Their mothers (and one father) sat in their children’s classroom as a few of the students passed on all they learned about dental health this year. I did a short presentation to reiterate the importance of tooth brushing and caring for baby teeth. Then, as the students were served a goodbye lunch in my honor, each one passed in front of the class and said what they wished to me. One boy gave me fake flowers. Another brought me corn on the cob. They all had sweet words. They begged me not to go, told me they love me and thanked me for all I taught them. A few just gave me a hug but no words came. As all 46 of them took their turn, my cheeks began to hurt from smiling so long. It is hard to respond to 8 and 9 year olds telling you they love you and begging you not to leave. “I have to go, my family misses me.” was all I could really say. I guess the weird thing that day was standing around during recess and realizing the teachers were discussing the reason we have pubic hair (to divert sweat). One of many conversations I passively listened to, curious about my teachers’ thoughts. In the afternoon I got my phone back and once again could communicate.
Wednesday started pretty well, I observed some of my teachers in their classrooms, a friend stopped by my house for lunch. A little before bedtime, I tried to climb into my hammock with my book, a bowl of popcorn and a glass of wine. I also had my cell phone to try calling Traci back. Somehow, as I crawled into the hammock my cell phone slipped out of my hand directly into my wine glass. Busted. I am incomunicada for the second time in less than a week! I was connected to the world for an entire day! That was unfortunate. Luckily, I think I have a cell phone I can borrow for my remaining 3 weeks, starting tomorrow. Hopefully I don’t break, lose or have this one stolen.
Today I lost the dog. He was running beside me from one of my aldea schools and all the way through town. I stopped to have my tires filled and see if my cell phone could be repaired. I thought he would noticed I stopped and wait for me as he usually stays within a few feet of me. With air in my tires I looked around and didn’t see Bello. I assumed he continued on and would be waiting for me at the front door. When I arrived home he wasn’t there. I headed back down the street and asked a few shop owners if they had seen my dog (he’s well known here). Nothing, no one saw him. I made a few loops, calling his name. I was worried someone stole him (I have been warned countless times that he will be stolen asked to gift him to everyone and their cousin.) I needed to get to the school so I headed home again. Sure enough, there he was. I have no idea where he had been but at least he made it home. A few hours later, as I left my house to visit various people and straighten out plans for the next few days (no phone, must visit) I encountered a school bus. As I passed the bus a young child stepped off and was greeted by her mother. I walked past the bus and headed past the church. Suddenly, something bumped me from behind. I WAS HIT BY A SCHOOL BUS! REALLY? It barely bumped me but still… I was startled and ran a few steps to keep from being killed! I don’t think the driver ever noticed; and this guy drives kids around?! Who gets hit by a school bus? I guess the same girl who gets shot in the head with a BB gun and goes through phones faster than I update my blog.

It has been seven days. I really hope this was just one strange week and the those to come are less eventful.

Stick 'em up

Really?... I knew I should not have written it but I did. My close of service survey, my greatest accomplishment (or biggest surprise or something) I answered as “not having a major security incident, at least not yet.” Being pick-pocketed didn’t count. Considering how much time I have spent in Tegus, how often I walked around the capital, traveled with luggage, at odd hours, hitch-hiked etc, I have taken unnecessary risks and been lucky so far. This time, I did everything right. I took the small direct bus, got on at the “station” in Tegus and waited on the bus until it left. Why do people have to be punks?!

6:28 pm, Saturday August 29: bus pulls out of Tegus
About 20 minutes outside of Tegucigalpa, a young guy says he wants to get off at the next “stop”. The ayudante (money collector) rolled his eyes and they pulled over to let him crawl all the way from the back seat. As soon as the kid stepped off the bus, he got back on and had a pistol in his hand. The ayudantes closed the door and the driver continued. I did not hear what the youth said to them. Bug (another PCV who lives near by and was traveling with me) noticed the gun too. The kid pointed the gun at the two ayudantes as they handed over all the money they had just collected and the earnings from earlier that day. The kid also robbed the driver and told him to keep driving. The ayudantes were checked again, lifting their shirts, turning their pockets inside-out, taking off their shoes. This kid looked about 18 years old as did his accomplice. The other guy started in the back asking for cell phones and money from every passenger. The first guy camped out in the front and started collecting from the passengers near him. The entire mini-bus (probably about 35-40 people) sat with our hands on our heads for about 15 minutes. When the accomplice from the back arrived at our row (near the door) he waved his gun toward Bug and I and asked for “celulares y dinero.” I had sat on my Peace Corps issued phone but the second he asked I handed it to him along with about 400 lempiras that were in my front pocket. I turned my pockets out to show that nothing else of value was in them. Luckily, they did not ask for more and we both got away with the majority of the money we had just gotten out of the ATM, our debit cards, groceries and overnight bags. I had kicked my backpack under the seat in front of me at the start of the robbery. If they had asked, I would have handed it over. I am glad they never asked.

After robbing everyone on the bus, the first guy told the driver to make a U-turn to drop he and his buddy off at a pre-arranged spot on the highway were get-away vehicles were waiting. As we returned to their drop-off point, the second guy glanced at me, and asked for my earrings. Really?! They are sterling, really, not worth much and everyone here where gold anyway! I gave up all 5 of my small sliver hoops. Anything to keep them from getting nervous and pulling the trigger. Finally the two assailants got off the busito and we again started heading toward Valle de Angeles to visit other Peace Corps friends. While the majority of the passengers started yelling at the driver and ayudantes for not stopping at the police station on the highway and letting the guys on the bus in the first place, Bug and I began to laugh it off. The passengers were upset because one woman apparently warned the ayudantes they were thieves and why did they let them on the bus? (Yet she still got on the bus after them.) The driver responded honestly, “I had a gun to my head, what did you want me to do?!”

Suddenly, a woman yelled that we were being followed and it was the motorcycle one of the robbers got on. Bug saw a motorcycle behind us, and a car did follow us until the last turn to the police station in Valle but whether it was the robbers or not, I have no idea. Oddly, those last few minutes we were ducked on the bus floor and the driver sped, honking toward town were as scary if not more frightening than the actual robbery. Women wailing and praying out-loud will have that affect.

While staring at a gun in the hand of someone using it as a means of control and threat, I was glad I remember to report my whereabouts to Peace Corps. I gave them my money, cell phone and earrings pleading silently for them to leave our wine and groceries. I completely forgot my camera was in my backpack as well. I wondered if my friend Fazy responded to the text message I sent her just minutes before, I hoped our friends started cooking dinner despite not hearing from us when we reached the halfway point as planned. I wondered if the guns were really loaded. Really? Those are the things that crossed my mind in the presence of two desperate kids with guns? It all turned out ok in the end. We made it to our destination, late and to worried friends (who were trying to call us and call us and call us) but safely. We corked a bottle of wine that survived the robbery and laughed all night in disbelief that the whole thing really happened. We told the story over and over, covering all the details. “My notebooks, my notebooks,” cried a university student in the front seat. He threw the backpack at her head and told her shut up about her notebooks as she continued to cry “My notebooks, my notebooks…” in relief. He took my small earrings and not Bug’s huge ones? He even examined my single hoops through two holes before deciding that he did indeed want that one as well. Money gets lost or spent, things can be replaced, everyone is safe. It is just one more story to share and an experience I hope I never forget, nor repeat.

August 27

Part I: The First Blow

It hit me. Wednesday August 19, 2009, 6:00pm, I realize for the first time that I am in fact, leaving. I spent the last several weeks answering various forms of the “how does it feel to be leaving” question the same way. “It doesn’t really feel like I am leaving… it hasn’t hit me yet.” Well folks, I’m going…
As my teachers started to arrive later than normal, I initially thought they were nervous for their final exam. But these are my level 2 teachers, I have worked with them for 2 years now, they haven’t arrived this late since TEAM 1! As they trickled in, each bearing something extra, I saw they were prepared for a fiesta. All year I wanted to bring them yellow jello. They notoriously have difficulty saying the color “yellow” and it comes out “jello”. On many occasions I have explained grinning that “jello” is food while “yellow” is the color, therefore, I wanted to bring them yellow jello. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find yellow so I settled for green. They still got a kick out of it. (By the way, most of them now say “yellow” correctly.) My small contribution was added to the snacks and cake they brought.
As they finished their exams we had our despidida (goodbye) in a corner of the municipal library where I held classes and some of the PC trainees worked around us setting up for a movie-night fundraiser scheduled after our class. I felt slightly awkward as people bustled around the library and the teachers presented me with gifts and said too many nice things about me. The despidida was kept short but they wouldn’t let me escape without each of their praise and thanks. “I love you,” one teacher told me as she hugged me goodbye for the evening. The thought they put into sending me off and their words were more than just the typical, “you are leaving so we should say something nice about you.” They talked about the things they took from my classes. It made me feel as though I did something meaningful and at least a few people were positively affected by my time here. I often felt as though I was growing personally through my service but wondered how much the community was taking from it. At least this small group of teachers has more confidence in themselves and their ability to teach English, I have seen them using more active teaching methods and their students seem to be retaining what they are teaching! If nothing else, I will never forget these 10 teachers who stuck with me and struggled through my first extended teaching experience. They even came back a second year! They probably taught me more than I them but either way, it appears a positive experience for all involved.


Part II: Friends in the Shower

You saw the cockroach (if you have forgotten, scan back a few months).
In addition Big Mama Cucaracha, I have seen mice and slugs in my shower on various occasions. Although in my opinion less disgusting, this morning (August 27) takes the cake in size and also wins with surprise factor, TWICE!
Today is Friday, water day. I had to leave to observe one of my TEAM teachers in her classroom and the water hadn’t started running yet. I opened the faucet and went to close the shower curtain to prevent the entire bathroom from becoming entirely drenched. The curtain stuck a bit before closing and I heard a thunk as something hit the shower floor. I was slightly taken aback when I saw a GIANT lizard in the bottom of my shower. It was actually a small iguana, my neighbors later confirmed. I think he was chilling out on the curtain rod while I got ready to leave (I generally bathe in the heat of the day or wash the dust/mud off in the evening.) Since I needed to leave, and he obviously got in somehow, I snapped a picture and left him to fend for himself and hopefully escape. I almost forgot about the entire incident. I returned a few hours later to running water and no electricity. Since the bathroom was dark, I reached toward the barrel to check that it was full and I could turn off the water. My hand did not hit water or the edge of the plastic barrel but the roughish skin of a reptile. I yelped with surprise and started laughing, disappointed no one was here to witness the spectacle. I brought my flashlight into the bathroom and there was my friend the iguana on the edge of the barrel closest to the faucet, tail hanging in this weekend’s bath water. I have to admit, I was startled. Still laughing, I couldn’t bring myself to reach in and turn off the water. I went looking for my 13 neighbor, he won’t be afraid of a lizard! He was not home but his 15 year old sister, mom (my tortilla lady) and the 2 year old were there to save me from the lizard and have a good laugh at me. They took the lizard outside where I took a few photos, a kid passing by took over and it escaped into my neighbors’ yard before they had a chance to kill it. Apparently this type of iguana bites and they were set on eliminating it and preventing it from pestering other neighbors. At least I gave them a good laugh and one more “Crazy Gringa” story to remember me.

I just hope I don’t find any more unpleasant friends in my bathroom in the next 3 weeks.

PS: my mental state is questionable. I have at least 4 days worth of things to plan in the next two weeks and one available day. My last week in site is useless when it comes to work. Tuesday is Honduran Independence day and Thursday is Teachers’ day. That means no school all week and the following Monday I head to Tegus for my remaining days. How did the last month of service become the most stressful and busiest time of my entire 2 years? You may or may not hear from me again before I hit the road with Alice and Rachel. Buen viaje a mi?!

Photos: TEAM 1 and 2 teachers, my amigo iguana, me looking 5 yrs old opening my gift, Talanga’s giant Ceiba tree and mural

Mutually beneficial relationship... everybody wins

I have recently engaged in a relationship with my neighbors that benefits us both. My neighbors’ benefit is more concrete while mine is an ease of conscience. I get to feel good about myself. First, some background information about the ways of life here. In Talanga, there is running water twice a week. In my neighborhood Monday mornings and Friday mornings the faucets start working, often around 6 or 6:30 although it could be anytime. Water generally runs for the majority of the morning, sometimes into early afternoon. You never really know when it will come and go. Since the other 5 days there is no water, everyone spends these mornings filling every container and barrel they can find, hence the pila. A pila is essentially a concrete holding tank for water. The pila needs to be emptied and cleaned every so often. I have algae problems therefore my pila needs cleaning almost every week.

So, water comes every Monday and Friday, except when it doesn’t. Some days the water just doesn’t come. This usually does not cause problems for me. I am one person living in a small house with a rather large pila and a barrel in the bathroom which I use to bathe, wash hands and flush the toilet. I generally only use the pila water to wash clothes and dishes. Some times laundry misses the to-do list between water coming. Therefore, I have a huge pila full of water. When it comes time to clean the pila I must drain it completely. Occasionally, I see my neighbor kids walking to the river with buckets. A family with three adolescents and a toddler uses a lot of water. Just the laundry dirtied by a two year old probably uses more wash water than I use all week. When water inexplicably does not come, it causes stress and problems for many families. The wealthier families can buy extra water but that isn’t a realistic option for everyone.

I caught my neighbors walking to the river with buckets on a day I sat with a full pila. I invited the kids to bring water from my house to theirs instead of from the river. I think they felt a little guilty the first time, worried I would run out of water because I gave it to them. The water has been surprisingly reliable the last few months, until last week. Last Monday, water did not come, by Tuesday they were scraping the last drops from the bottom of their pila. The mom poked her head in my door (which is always standing wide open). She hesitantly asked if I could give them a bucket of water. When she saw my pila was full and I stressed that there is no way I could use it all, to take as much as they needed, she sent the kids back for a few more buckets. Thursday the son popped his head in, “Laura, regaleme agua por favor.” Of course I will give you water! The family benefits by receiving free water from across the street instead of hauling it several blocks (slightly up hill). Talanga water is considered potable but I would not call it “clean” by any means. Some days it comes through the tap brown and muddy, especially after heavy rainstorms. That is just what you can see, I have not had my water quality checked for bacteria, parasites and other problems, I am afraid of the findings. Still, I believe the pila water is cleaner than the visibly polluted river (again, I don’t even want to speculate about what I can’t see!) How do I benefit from this arrangement? I feel better that my neighbors aren’t using river water (both for their own health and what is left of the health of the small river.) I also don’t feel guilty when I clean the pila and waste gallons and gallons of water. I realize this is not a sustainable solution but it works for now. In two months they will have to return to the river. Until then, they can keep laughing at me each time I buy 1 Lempira (about 6 cents) of tortillas. They understand that I am just one gringa and don’t eat tortillas with every meal but they still get a kick out of my 1 Lempira. Most people buy many, EVERY day. My host mom makes 60-70 tortillas daily. I enjoy my 3-5 (depending who fetches them for me) maybe once a week.

Yes, the "coup" continues but I don't really have any news for you. Life in Talanga still hasn't changed much.

Photos: 3rd grade dramas about hygiene and tooth brushing, my pila

June and July pictures

As promised, here are some photos from the last two months. Projects in the schools, teachers, the dinner I made for Honduran friends, my neighbor hood the day of the falling trees (the trees, neighbors, the police truck from my front door, etc), Bello on my front stoop, cutting the grass along the highway-with machetes, WA pride, this years Pasionistas (yep, group is changing again ALREADY!).

Still here...

Yes, I am still fine, just frustrated and STUCK! I am stuck in my site and haven't been to Tegus in 3 solid weeks. I am pretty sure that is a record. I have never stayed away from Tegus for more than 3 weeks. I WANT OUT!!!
But, at least I have my health...

photos soon... it's a "promise"

Micahel Jackson DIED! Oh, and a coup

Over the last two years, I have learned a lot about priorities. Well, that isn’t necessarily true. I am not sure I have learned so much as that the reality of priorities and the role they play in life is a constant presence. The way people prioritize has been a fountain of frustration throughout my service. Of course everyone prioritizes differently, especially once you cross the culture boundary. Some things just seem obvious, like health, hygiene and education. (Granted, my hygiene suffers on occasion and I eat foods and at places which I know will probably make me sick.) Thursday, I was reminded of how funny life is and priorities. It often takes days, weeks, sometimes months, for me to hear about events and news, especially from the US. I called a fellow volunteer to invite her to help judge the “First English Music Festival.” She answered with something to the effect of, “Hey what’s up, did you know MICHAEL JACKSON DIED! I just saw it on CNN.” It was strange to hear about such news within hours (I believe) of the actual event. An hour or two later, I stopped by the Passionist volunteers’ house and there too I heard the news. From the Passionists’ I visited one of my teachers and her family where she relayed the news and I later saw it on the local TV station, “Talanga Vision”. Apparently Michael Jackson (And Farah Fawcett as a side note on two of the four occasions) was just big news that I not only heard about it the same week, but FOUR times the day of! Life is funny.

The above paragraph was written June 27. Before the coup.

Speaking of news, it is amazing how little I have about the current situation here. You may have more information than I do. Especially since I do not own a TV or radio.
The question everyone wants to know: “What the hell is going on in Honduras?”
Yes, I am fine. Although the government is in major transition and somewhat unstable at the moment; violence (as far as I know, to this point) has been minimal. There have been many protests in the capital and bigger cities but they seem to be mostly peaceful. As for most small towns, life has continued more or less as normal. Here is what I can tell you and my understanding of the situation:
Last Sunday, June 28, “ex-President” Mel Zelaya had scheduled a special election to put a fourth box on the ballot. This new issue known as the “Cuarta Urna” would change the process to amend the constitution. The president would be able to make changes without going through Congress (which is currently the process). “While Honduran law allows for a constitutional rewrite, the power to open that door does not lie with the president. A constituent assembly can only be called through a national referendum approved by its Congress.” The National Congress, Supreme Court and Military stated that the election was unconstitutional and Sunday morning Mel made a statement from Costa Rica. Honduras had no power and news and radio stations were down from about 7:15am until midday. In the afternoon, Congress appointed the next in line (Micheletti, the president of Congress) as the new acting president until the next president is elected in November and sworn-in in January (as previously scheduled). This is an election year and Honduras has a single term limit for the office of President of the Republic.
Monday, school was cancelled. In many places schools have not yet reopened. Kids and teachers in Talanga returned to school on Tuesday and Wednesday but classes have been cancelled again today and tomorrow. Mel is scheduled to return to Honduras on Saturday.
Throughout the week, protesters for both Zelaya and Micheletti have gathered in the Capital and other cities. Some roadblocks have occurred. Peace Corps volunteers have very limited travel permission. I hate to speak for others, but I think I am safe in saying most PCVs just want the situation to end so we can go back to working and the previous level of travel freedom.

I never thought I would live through a coup. I must say, the view from my post in Talanga would not make a very good movie script. Considering power outages and cancelled school happen all too regularly, the only thing truly out of the ordinary is the news. Other towns may be different and I know some places lost power for 2 days straight during the week. As for now, we await an end to the restrictions and the reasons they are necessary. Happy 4th of July.

I tried to add photos but they won't upload. Sorry, internt sucks coup or no coup.