I LOVE PANAMÁ!
We spent Halloween in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica then, even after a late night, caught a morning bus to the border and arrived in Bocas del Toro, Panamá by mid afternoon. We originally planned a few days in Bocas but loved it so much we stayed an entire week. Bocas is touristy but somehow retains a small town, local feel. It has the resources of a tourist trap but unlike many other places we have been, there are still locals! Biggest downside, you have to take a water taxi or bus to the beach and the chitres (sand flies) are horrible. We happened to arrive in Bocas at the beginning of a series of Panamanian Holidays. Nov 1 through 4 are all holidays (including Independence day) so there were many Panamanians on vacation from the city as well as other foreign tourists who happened to pass through. Our last full day in Bocas was definitely in the top 5 days ever. I am not sure how to explain it but is just turned out as a great day. We met a girl (who grew up on Mercer Island) who met some guys from Panama city, one of which is the lawyer of an American hostel and real estate owner. We were invited (meaning we didn't have to pay) to go on Chester's boat to an empty island with a beautiful beach. We left the island Zapatilla to the big island of Bastimientos where Chester has a small, beautiful wood hut built on a dock over the water. All the furniture was hand carved wood made by a local man and surprisingly comfortable. We wandered the waters between each island buying fresh lobsters from the locals as they free dove for them. The lobster varied in size but averaged about $2 each. Of course, we had delicious garlic lobster with coconut curry rice cooked by Chester and an amazing salad made us. We then headed to Barco Hundido Bar (Sunken Ship) and danced the night away. The weather was perfect and sunny all day and the company was good. As we trolled back to the town of Bocas for dinner we entertained ourselves and Panamanians by learning local slang. The day and Bocas fue a otro nivel.
The following day, we took a night bus to Panama City and arrived at the hostel at 4:30am. Reception opens at 8 but the night guard let us sleep on the couches in the movie theater until we could check in. We wandered Casco Viejo, checked out some artisans and the presidential palace. We plan to see the canal and Old Panama before heading to San Blas on the Caribbean coast Wed morning to catch the boat to Colombia.
I still don't have a camera but my Ipod has been recovered! I just have to find out how to get it from Mal País, CR to me. Hmmm...
If you would like to check out pictures, Rachel has been posting the highlights on facebook. I think she is the only Rachel Papernick and they should be available to everyone with a Facebook account. Otherwise, I will try to get a few from the girls posted.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Elimination
My most prized material possession for the last 2 years is no longer with me. We thoroughly enjoyed a few days in Mal País/ Sta Teresa, Costa Rica on the Pacific coast. The stop was quick but nice and we met some interesting people. Unfortunately, my ipod grew arms, disconnected itself from the charger then grew legs and walked away. We have no idea how it disappeared and NOTHING else in our room was touched. Alice's ipod was even in plain site and mine was under my exploded luggage on the floor, further from the door. The following day's 12 hours of travel to the Caribbean coast was a bit brutal. No book, no music and hours and hours of bus... I guess now I have one less thing to carry, one less thing I can lose.
Yesterday we arrived in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. All of Costa Rica is beautiful and the Costa Ricans are really kind. My biggest complaint about them is that sometimes they try to be too helpful.
We met a local dive instructor on the bus to Puerto Viejo. Through him, we found an opportunity to help out with a regional disaster. A hurricane in Florida (I think in '92) destroyed an aquarium containing 3 Lion Fish. Lion Fish are not native the to Caribbean are very poisonous and have no predators. The 3 little fish multiplied and multiplied and multiplied. They are now threatening many species and essentially the entire ecosystem of the Caribbean. Lion Fish eggs float on the surface so they can travel and spread over long distances very quickly. Groupers have been eating the Lion Fish but their poisonous spines kill the groupers. It's a disaster in the making. We spent the first half the day snorkeling the reef off the beach of Puerto Viejo looking for Lion Fish. Unfortunately, Alice, Rachel and I were unsuccessful at finding them but the guys working for the project trying to protect native species caught 7, 6 juveniles and a small adult. It was fun to get out and volunteer a little time to help out, even if we weren't so helpful.
Next we are getting ready for Halloween and trying to make of the most of the few days we have here. Ciao
Yesterday we arrived in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. All of Costa Rica is beautiful and the Costa Ricans are really kind. My biggest complaint about them is that sometimes they try to be too helpful.
We met a local dive instructor on the bus to Puerto Viejo. Through him, we found an opportunity to help out with a regional disaster. A hurricane in Florida (I think in '92) destroyed an aquarium containing 3 Lion Fish. Lion Fish are not native the to Caribbean are very poisonous and have no predators. The 3 little fish multiplied and multiplied and multiplied. They are now threatening many species and essentially the entire ecosystem of the Caribbean. Lion Fish eggs float on the surface so they can travel and spread over long distances very quickly. Groupers have been eating the Lion Fish but their poisonous spines kill the groupers. It's a disaster in the making. We spent the first half the day snorkeling the reef off the beach of Puerto Viejo looking for Lion Fish. Unfortunately, Alice, Rachel and I were unsuccessful at finding them but the guys working for the project trying to protect native species caught 7, 6 juveniles and a small adult. It was fun to get out and volunteer a little time to help out, even if we weren't so helpful.
Next we are getting ready for Halloween and trying to make of the most of the few days we have here. Ciao
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Nicaragua was incredible. After Managua and Granada, we headed to the island on the lake, Ometepe. We climbed volcano Maderas expecting to see a crater lake. Instead, we tree climbed to the most anticlimactic summit I have ever experienced. It was freezing cold and so cloudy we could see about 10 meters into the crater. We heard later that the "lake" was rather unimpressive and others also found the hike disappointing. We have had some wonderful local guides but this was was sub par. He just didn't do much "guiding". Rachel sprained her ankle toward the bottom, in a hurry to end the hike. We did see white faced monkeys, definitely the highlight of that day. Although Ometepe's twin volcanoes are beautiful and the island tranquilo, I heard great things and my expectations weren't met. We left the island a day ahead of schedule and spent an extra on the beach in San Juan del Sur. I took a few goes at surfing on borrowed boards but since Rachel and Alice have never surfed and Rachel had a busted ankle and couldn't take a lesson, Alice decided to wait to learn until they can do it together. Costa Rica and Panama should provide opportunities. Instead, we spent an entire week on the beach. We had a few rainstorms but overall the weather was decent. Just cloudy enough to keep us from burning.
Yesterday, we arrived in Costa Rica. My first impression, Little America. Driving (we got a ride from a new friend) through winding mountain roads (paved but with potholes), a cloudy haze meeting the lush vegetation, I felt like I was back in the USA. That probably sounds weird but after a day here and wandering through the small volcano town of La Fortuna, I still feel like I am in Little America. Maybe I have just been in Honduras too long. Prices are significantly higher here than any of the other countries we have been to. We are struggling with the complicated conversion rate (575 colones to $1) and much higher prices. We knew Costa Rica was expensive but dishing out the cash is still hard when we are so accustomed to Honduran and Nicaraguan economies.
Off to a thermal river then the Pacific coast for more beach and surfing. It's a rough life...
Yesterday, we arrived in Costa Rica. My first impression, Little America. Driving (we got a ride from a new friend) through winding mountain roads (paved but with potholes), a cloudy haze meeting the lush vegetation, I felt like I was back in the USA. That probably sounds weird but after a day here and wandering through the small volcano town of La Fortuna, I still feel like I am in Little America. Maybe I have just been in Honduras too long. Prices are significantly higher here than any of the other countries we have been to. We are struggling with the complicated conversion rate (575 colones to $1) and much higher prices. We knew Costa Rica was expensive but dishing out the cash is still hard when we are so accustomed to Honduran and Nicaraguan economies.
Off to a thermal river then the Pacific coast for more beach and surfing. It's a rough life...
Thursday, October 15, 2009
officially unemployed and homeless
Now that I am in transit you probably want to hear what I am doing... at the same time, I am highly unmotivated to spend much time in front of a computer when I could be hanging out on the beach or wandering around a new city. That said, updates will likely be few and far between, and without pictures (I'll get to that). Lo siento...
I finished my PC service amidst national curfews and demonstrations in the capital. We are supposed to spend the last week of service in and out of the office finishing reports, getting signatures and completing medical appointments. As we entered Tegus Monday afternoon, an announcement came on the radio: national curfew starting at 4:00pm due to the surprise return of the ousted president, Mel Zelaya. Announcing a 4pm curfew at 3:30 caused traffic to stop dead. What a way to start the last week...
The curfews resulted in PC cancelling our medical appointments and giving us vouchers to get physicals and parasite tests when we return to the States. That's great... IF you are going back! Since we only have 60 days to do the appointments, I'll be stopping at the doctor's office in Panama. Booo! The week was frustrating as we spent 42 straight ours held up in our not so luxurious hotel. A 24 hour curfew means no restaurants or grocery stores opened. The embassy was generous enough to donate military MREs for us (meals ready-to-eat, what soldiers eat in the field.) We planned to enjoy our time and each other's company as we don't know when we will see each other again. The final week of service is usually full of fun, socializing, taking advantage of your favorite Tegus restaurants, and other volunteers passing through for goodbyes. needless to say, we searched for ways to enjoy ourselves in the Hotel Guadalupe II for the ENTIRE week. But we survived the demonstrations, the tear gas and each other.
As official RPCVs, about 5 of us headed to the Bay Island (off the north coast of Honduras) of Utila. Possibly my favorite place on Earth. We spent an entire week diving, hanging out in the ocean and getting too much sun. I wasn't ready to leave. Unfortunately, among all this fun, I left my camera out and it became the first casualty of the trip. The camera was old and can be replaced. What upsets me is all the photos I lost from the last several weeks.
If Traci hadn't flown in, I may still be in Utila. It was a good thing she got us moving. With her, Alice, Rachel and I visited Copan Ruins and headed for Guatemala. Antigua, Volcano Pacaya (hot lava glows, roasts your marshmallows and melts your shoes), Chichicastanengo market, Guatemala City (where Alice took the GRE!), Coban, Lanquin and the beautiful natural pools, caves and underground river of Semuc Champey then back to Guate, through El Salvador and on to Managua, Nicaragua. Since I took a detour to pick up a suitcase in Tegus between San Salvador and Managua, I just spent the last 4 nights in 4 different countries. I'm ready to slow down a bit and look forward to spending a few days in Granada. Traci left this morning to return to those crazy things like a job, husband and my dog. It was great having her company and showing her around this part of the world. It's back to just Alice, Rachel and I living it up unemployed and homeless... : )
I finished my PC service amidst national curfews and demonstrations in the capital. We are supposed to spend the last week of service in and out of the office finishing reports, getting signatures and completing medical appointments. As we entered Tegus Monday afternoon, an announcement came on the radio: national curfew starting at 4:00pm due to the surprise return of the ousted president, Mel Zelaya. Announcing a 4pm curfew at 3:30 caused traffic to stop dead. What a way to start the last week...
The curfews resulted in PC cancelling our medical appointments and giving us vouchers to get physicals and parasite tests when we return to the States. That's great... IF you are going back! Since we only have 60 days to do the appointments, I'll be stopping at the doctor's office in Panama. Booo! The week was frustrating as we spent 42 straight ours held up in our not so luxurious hotel. A 24 hour curfew means no restaurants or grocery stores opened. The embassy was generous enough to donate military MREs for us (meals ready-to-eat, what soldiers eat in the field.) We planned to enjoy our time and each other's company as we don't know when we will see each other again. The final week of service is usually full of fun, socializing, taking advantage of your favorite Tegus restaurants, and other volunteers passing through for goodbyes. needless to say, we searched for ways to enjoy ourselves in the Hotel Guadalupe II for the ENTIRE week. But we survived the demonstrations, the tear gas and each other.
As official RPCVs, about 5 of us headed to the Bay Island (off the north coast of Honduras) of Utila. Possibly my favorite place on Earth. We spent an entire week diving, hanging out in the ocean and getting too much sun. I wasn't ready to leave. Unfortunately, among all this fun, I left my camera out and it became the first casualty of the trip. The camera was old and can be replaced. What upsets me is all the photos I lost from the last several weeks.
If Traci hadn't flown in, I may still be in Utila. It was a good thing she got us moving. With her, Alice, Rachel and I visited Copan Ruins and headed for Guatemala. Antigua, Volcano Pacaya (hot lava glows, roasts your marshmallows and melts your shoes), Chichicastanengo market, Guatemala City (where Alice took the GRE!), Coban, Lanquin and the beautiful natural pools, caves and underground river of Semuc Champey then back to Guate, through El Salvador and on to Managua, Nicaragua. Since I took a detour to pick up a suitcase in Tegus between San Salvador and Managua, I just spent the last 4 nights in 4 different countries. I'm ready to slow down a bit and look forward to spending a few days in Granada. Traci left this morning to return to those crazy things like a job, husband and my dog. It was great having her company and showing her around this part of the world. It's back to just Alice, Rachel and I living it up unemployed and homeless... : )
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
more friends in the shower
last night I found a tarantula in my shower. A mediocre photo to come. I think the snake living my my backyard is the only thing I haven't found there yet. At least this time Bug was there to share the experience. Tarantulas are just so creepy...
Friday, September 4, 2009
Is this the end?
Is this really how I am finishing my service? That last seven days have been the strangest combination of bad luck. Am I bringing it on myself?
It started last Friday with the iguana in my shower. Saturday was the robbery. Sunday, I realized around 2:00pm that the presentation papers for my HIV talk were at the collegio in an aldea. I needed to bring them with me that evening when I headed to Alice’s site to give the talk with her the next day. I re-made all of them in a slight panic. Monday, Alice and I gave the HIV talk to 9th graders and I can’t think of anything especially weird. Tuesday I shed my first few goodbye tears as one of my third grade classes said their goodbyes. Their mothers (and one father) sat in their children’s classroom as a few of the students passed on all they learned about dental health this year. I did a short presentation to reiterate the importance of tooth brushing and caring for baby teeth. Then, as the students were served a goodbye lunch in my honor, each one passed in front of the class and said what they wished to me. One boy gave me fake flowers. Another brought me corn on the cob. They all had sweet words. They begged me not to go, told me they love me and thanked me for all I taught them. A few just gave me a hug but no words came. As all 46 of them took their turn, my cheeks began to hurt from smiling so long. It is hard to respond to 8 and 9 year olds telling you they love you and begging you not to leave. “I have to go, my family misses me.” was all I could really say. I guess the weird thing that day was standing around during recess and realizing the teachers were discussing the reason we have pubic hair (to divert sweat). One of many conversations I passively listened to, curious about my teachers’ thoughts. In the afternoon I got my phone back and once again could communicate.
Wednesday started pretty well, I observed some of my teachers in their classrooms, a friend stopped by my house for lunch. A little before bedtime, I tried to climb into my hammock with my book, a bowl of popcorn and a glass of wine. I also had my cell phone to try calling Traci back. Somehow, as I crawled into the hammock my cell phone slipped out of my hand directly into my wine glass. Busted. I am incomunicada for the second time in less than a week! I was connected to the world for an entire day! That was unfortunate. Luckily, I think I have a cell phone I can borrow for my remaining 3 weeks, starting tomorrow. Hopefully I don’t break, lose or have this one stolen.
Today I lost the dog. He was running beside me from one of my aldea schools and all the way through town. I stopped to have my tires filled and see if my cell phone could be repaired. I thought he would noticed I stopped and wait for me as he usually stays within a few feet of me. With air in my tires I looked around and didn’t see Bello. I assumed he continued on and would be waiting for me at the front door. When I arrived home he wasn’t there. I headed back down the street and asked a few shop owners if they had seen my dog (he’s well known here). Nothing, no one saw him. I made a few loops, calling his name. I was worried someone stole him (I have been warned countless times that he will be stolen asked to gift him to everyone and their cousin.) I needed to get to the school so I headed home again. Sure enough, there he was. I have no idea where he had been but at least he made it home. A few hours later, as I left my house to visit various people and straighten out plans for the next few days (no phone, must visit) I encountered a school bus. As I passed the bus a young child stepped off and was greeted by her mother. I walked past the bus and headed past the church. Suddenly, something bumped me from behind. I WAS HIT BY A SCHOOL BUS! REALLY? It barely bumped me but still… I was startled and ran a few steps to keep from being killed! I don’t think the driver ever noticed; and this guy drives kids around?! Who gets hit by a school bus? I guess the same girl who gets shot in the head with a BB gun and goes through phones faster than I update my blog.
It has been seven days. I really hope this was just one strange week and the those to come are less eventful.
It started last Friday with the iguana in my shower. Saturday was the robbery. Sunday, I realized around 2:00pm that the presentation papers for my HIV talk were at the collegio in an aldea. I needed to bring them with me that evening when I headed to Alice’s site to give the talk with her the next day. I re-made all of them in a slight panic. Monday, Alice and I gave the HIV talk to 9th graders and I can’t think of anything especially weird. Tuesday I shed my first few goodbye tears as one of my third grade classes said their goodbyes. Their mothers (and one father) sat in their children’s classroom as a few of the students passed on all they learned about dental health this year. I did a short presentation to reiterate the importance of tooth brushing and caring for baby teeth. Then, as the students were served a goodbye lunch in my honor, each one passed in front of the class and said what they wished to me. One boy gave me fake flowers. Another brought me corn on the cob. They all had sweet words. They begged me not to go, told me they love me and thanked me for all I taught them. A few just gave me a hug but no words came. As all 46 of them took their turn, my cheeks began to hurt from smiling so long. It is hard to respond to 8 and 9 year olds telling you they love you and begging you not to leave. “I have to go, my family misses me.” was all I could really say. I guess the weird thing that day was standing around during recess and realizing the teachers were discussing the reason we have pubic hair (to divert sweat). One of many conversations I passively listened to, curious about my teachers’ thoughts. In the afternoon I got my phone back and once again could communicate.
Wednesday started pretty well, I observed some of my teachers in their classrooms, a friend stopped by my house for lunch. A little before bedtime, I tried to climb into my hammock with my book, a bowl of popcorn and a glass of wine. I also had my cell phone to try calling Traci back. Somehow, as I crawled into the hammock my cell phone slipped out of my hand directly into my wine glass. Busted. I am incomunicada for the second time in less than a week! I was connected to the world for an entire day! That was unfortunate. Luckily, I think I have a cell phone I can borrow for my remaining 3 weeks, starting tomorrow. Hopefully I don’t break, lose or have this one stolen.
Today I lost the dog. He was running beside me from one of my aldea schools and all the way through town. I stopped to have my tires filled and see if my cell phone could be repaired. I thought he would noticed I stopped and wait for me as he usually stays within a few feet of me. With air in my tires I looked around and didn’t see Bello. I assumed he continued on and would be waiting for me at the front door. When I arrived home he wasn’t there. I headed back down the street and asked a few shop owners if they had seen my dog (he’s well known here). Nothing, no one saw him. I made a few loops, calling his name. I was worried someone stole him (I have been warned countless times that he will be stolen asked to gift him to everyone and their cousin.) I needed to get to the school so I headed home again. Sure enough, there he was. I have no idea where he had been but at least he made it home. A few hours later, as I left my house to visit various people and straighten out plans for the next few days (no phone, must visit) I encountered a school bus. As I passed the bus a young child stepped off and was greeted by her mother. I walked past the bus and headed past the church. Suddenly, something bumped me from behind. I WAS HIT BY A SCHOOL BUS! REALLY? It barely bumped me but still… I was startled and ran a few steps to keep from being killed! I don’t think the driver ever noticed; and this guy drives kids around?! Who gets hit by a school bus? I guess the same girl who gets shot in the head with a BB gun and goes through phones faster than I update my blog.
It has been seven days. I really hope this was just one strange week and the those to come are less eventful.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Stick 'em up
Really?... I knew I should not have written it but I did. My close of service survey, my greatest accomplishment (or biggest surprise or something) I answered as “not having a major security incident, at least not yet.” Being pick-pocketed didn’t count. Considering how much time I have spent in Tegus, how often I walked around the capital, traveled with luggage, at odd hours, hitch-hiked etc, I have taken unnecessary risks and been lucky so far. This time, I did everything right. I took the small direct bus, got on at the “station” in Tegus and waited on the bus until it left. Why do people have to be punks?!
6:28 pm, Saturday August 29: bus pulls out of Tegus
About 20 minutes outside of Tegucigalpa, a young guy says he wants to get off at the next “stop”. The ayudante (money collector) rolled his eyes and they pulled over to let him crawl all the way from the back seat. As soon as the kid stepped off the bus, he got back on and had a pistol in his hand. The ayudantes closed the door and the driver continued. I did not hear what the youth said to them. Bug (another PCV who lives near by and was traveling with me) noticed the gun too. The kid pointed the gun at the two ayudantes as they handed over all the money they had just collected and the earnings from earlier that day. The kid also robbed the driver and told him to keep driving. The ayudantes were checked again, lifting their shirts, turning their pockets inside-out, taking off their shoes. This kid looked about 18 years old as did his accomplice. The other guy started in the back asking for cell phones and money from every passenger. The first guy camped out in the front and started collecting from the passengers near him. The entire mini-bus (probably about 35-40 people) sat with our hands on our heads for about 15 minutes. When the accomplice from the back arrived at our row (near the door) he waved his gun toward Bug and I and asked for “celulares y dinero.” I had sat on my Peace Corps issued phone but the second he asked I handed it to him along with about 400 lempiras that were in my front pocket. I turned my pockets out to show that nothing else of value was in them. Luckily, they did not ask for more and we both got away with the majority of the money we had just gotten out of the ATM, our debit cards, groceries and overnight bags. I had kicked my backpack under the seat in front of me at the start of the robbery. If they had asked, I would have handed it over. I am glad they never asked.
After robbing everyone on the bus, the first guy told the driver to make a U-turn to drop he and his buddy off at a pre-arranged spot on the highway were get-away vehicles were waiting. As we returned to their drop-off point, the second guy glanced at me, and asked for my earrings. Really?! They are sterling, really, not worth much and everyone here where gold anyway! I gave up all 5 of my small sliver hoops. Anything to keep them from getting nervous and pulling the trigger. Finally the two assailants got off the busito and we again started heading toward Valle de Angeles to visit other Peace Corps friends. While the majority of the passengers started yelling at the driver and ayudantes for not stopping at the police station on the highway and letting the guys on the bus in the first place, Bug and I began to laugh it off. The passengers were upset because one woman apparently warned the ayudantes they were thieves and why did they let them on the bus? (Yet she still got on the bus after them.) The driver responded honestly, “I had a gun to my head, what did you want me to do?!”
Suddenly, a woman yelled that we were being followed and it was the motorcycle one of the robbers got on. Bug saw a motorcycle behind us, and a car did follow us until the last turn to the police station in Valle but whether it was the robbers or not, I have no idea. Oddly, those last few minutes we were ducked on the bus floor and the driver sped, honking toward town were as scary if not more frightening than the actual robbery. Women wailing and praying out-loud will have that affect.
While staring at a gun in the hand of someone using it as a means of control and threat, I was glad I remember to report my whereabouts to Peace Corps. I gave them my money, cell phone and earrings pleading silently for them to leave our wine and groceries. I completely forgot my camera was in my backpack as well. I wondered if my friend Fazy responded to the text message I sent her just minutes before, I hoped our friends started cooking dinner despite not hearing from us when we reached the halfway point as planned. I wondered if the guns were really loaded. Really? Those are the things that crossed my mind in the presence of two desperate kids with guns? It all turned out ok in the end. We made it to our destination, late and to worried friends (who were trying to call us and call us and call us) but safely. We corked a bottle of wine that survived the robbery and laughed all night in disbelief that the whole thing really happened. We told the story over and over, covering all the details. “My notebooks, my notebooks,” cried a university student in the front seat. He threw the backpack at her head and told her shut up about her notebooks as she continued to cry “My notebooks, my notebooks…” in relief. He took my small earrings and not Bug’s huge ones? He even examined my single hoops through two holes before deciding that he did indeed want that one as well. Money gets lost or spent, things can be replaced, everyone is safe. It is just one more story to share and an experience I hope I never forget, nor repeat.
6:28 pm, Saturday August 29: bus pulls out of Tegus
About 20 minutes outside of Tegucigalpa, a young guy says he wants to get off at the next “stop”. The ayudante (money collector) rolled his eyes and they pulled over to let him crawl all the way from the back seat. As soon as the kid stepped off the bus, he got back on and had a pistol in his hand. The ayudantes closed the door and the driver continued. I did not hear what the youth said to them. Bug (another PCV who lives near by and was traveling with me) noticed the gun too. The kid pointed the gun at the two ayudantes as they handed over all the money they had just collected and the earnings from earlier that day. The kid also robbed the driver and told him to keep driving. The ayudantes were checked again, lifting their shirts, turning their pockets inside-out, taking off their shoes. This kid looked about 18 years old as did his accomplice. The other guy started in the back asking for cell phones and money from every passenger. The first guy camped out in the front and started collecting from the passengers near him. The entire mini-bus (probably about 35-40 people) sat with our hands on our heads for about 15 minutes. When the accomplice from the back arrived at our row (near the door) he waved his gun toward Bug and I and asked for “celulares y dinero.” I had sat on my Peace Corps issued phone but the second he asked I handed it to him along with about 400 lempiras that were in my front pocket. I turned my pockets out to show that nothing else of value was in them. Luckily, they did not ask for more and we both got away with the majority of the money we had just gotten out of the ATM, our debit cards, groceries and overnight bags. I had kicked my backpack under the seat in front of me at the start of the robbery. If they had asked, I would have handed it over. I am glad they never asked.
After robbing everyone on the bus, the first guy told the driver to make a U-turn to drop he and his buddy off at a pre-arranged spot on the highway were get-away vehicles were waiting. As we returned to their drop-off point, the second guy glanced at me, and asked for my earrings. Really?! They are sterling, really, not worth much and everyone here where gold anyway! I gave up all 5 of my small sliver hoops. Anything to keep them from getting nervous and pulling the trigger. Finally the two assailants got off the busito and we again started heading toward Valle de Angeles to visit other Peace Corps friends. While the majority of the passengers started yelling at the driver and ayudantes for not stopping at the police station on the highway and letting the guys on the bus in the first place, Bug and I began to laugh it off. The passengers were upset because one woman apparently warned the ayudantes they were thieves and why did they let them on the bus? (Yet she still got on the bus after them.) The driver responded honestly, “I had a gun to my head, what did you want me to do?!”
Suddenly, a woman yelled that we were being followed and it was the motorcycle one of the robbers got on. Bug saw a motorcycle behind us, and a car did follow us until the last turn to the police station in Valle but whether it was the robbers or not, I have no idea. Oddly, those last few minutes we were ducked on the bus floor and the driver sped, honking toward town were as scary if not more frightening than the actual robbery. Women wailing and praying out-loud will have that affect.
While staring at a gun in the hand of someone using it as a means of control and threat, I was glad I remember to report my whereabouts to Peace Corps. I gave them my money, cell phone and earrings pleading silently for them to leave our wine and groceries. I completely forgot my camera was in my backpack as well. I wondered if my friend Fazy responded to the text message I sent her just minutes before, I hoped our friends started cooking dinner despite not hearing from us when we reached the halfway point as planned. I wondered if the guns were really loaded. Really? Those are the things that crossed my mind in the presence of two desperate kids with guns? It all turned out ok in the end. We made it to our destination, late and to worried friends (who were trying to call us and call us and call us) but safely. We corked a bottle of wine that survived the robbery and laughed all night in disbelief that the whole thing really happened. We told the story over and over, covering all the details. “My notebooks, my notebooks,” cried a university student in the front seat. He threw the backpack at her head and told her shut up about her notebooks as she continued to cry “My notebooks, my notebooks…” in relief. He took my small earrings and not Bug’s huge ones? He even examined my single hoops through two holes before deciding that he did indeed want that one as well. Money gets lost or spent, things can be replaced, everyone is safe. It is just one more story to share and an experience I hope I never forget, nor repeat.
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