"Oh yeah, I'm here"

Funny things happen here. Sometimes I almost forget I am in a strange other world. Sometimes, I am reminded by strange and/or amusing events. As I rushed through a bustling grocery store in Tegus last week, I had one of those, "Oh yeah, I am here" moments. I passed by a sample table. Not so strange. But when you look to see what they youthful girls in matching "La Colonia" shirts are passing out, it's booze. Guaro actually. Aguardiente, commonly known as "Guaro," is a Honduran liquor made from sugar cane. It's strong, dirt cheap and tastes like it. This was not the first time I have seen liquor samples in a supermarket here but every time it makes me laugh. That would NEVER fly in the States (for better or for worse). Come to think of it, I can't recall seeing any sort of sample here besides alcohol. I am sure I have, just not that I can recall. I guess because that would be so "normal."
Behavior toward alcohol is very interesting. Guaro is abundant and often abused by drunks due to its affordable price. There are 4 national beers, all mediocre (in my opinion). "Wine" can refer to anything that isn't beer or hard liquor, including liqueurs. I noticed wine and "wine" (Boones Farm) on the tables at a high school graduation. I thought it a bit funny that the Argentinean bottle on one table and Boones on the next. I also predicted that the majority of the people (mostly parents and godparents) would prefer the Boones, too bad decent wine goes to waste without appreciation and maybe even a little disgust. I was entertained thoroughly when the table next to me started trying to open their corked bottle. The graduate tore off the label at the top of the bottle expecting a screw cap like on the other bottles. They passed the bottle around for about 15 minutes trying everything from shaking the bottle to pop the cork to picking at it and trying to pull it out with the ice tongs. (By the way, several tables put their red wine on ice as well.) When my table picked up their own bottle to open it, I warned them that they needed a corkscrew. The response: "no Laura, but this is wine." "Exactly, it is wine, you need a corkscrew." They were a bit befuddled but luckily didn't try shaking the bottle. Someone must have come prepared. Finally people figured out which table to go to for a corkscrew. I know it is just a lack of exposure to such things but I still found it entertaining.

I play soccer with a varying group of women and girls on the weekends. We are technically in a tournament in Tegucigalpa but most weekends we don't end up going for one reason or another (no field, the field is flooded, the other team can't make it, etc.) Last time we played 9 vs 9. It was the best game of women's soccer I have seen here. I like playing because it is something to do, great exercise, I am getting to know some of the girls pretty well and honestly, it's great for my self-esteem. Many weekends we go to fields not farm from town and play the team in the next municipality or from aldeas nearby. Last weekend we made one of these aldea trips. Never mind that I was told we were going at 11, when I arrived was told 12:30 then we finally left about 1:30. That is all normal. It was some of the worst soccer I have seen. I got bored playing defense so asked to play forward to get some exercise. I normal request to play anywhere BUT forward. I don't like making runs with my back to the goal, it's unnatural for me. I guess that just comes from so many years of playing behind and/or level with the ball. Anyway... The games are just for fun and it is a wonderful opportunity for some of the women and girls to get out of the house and away from cleaning and cooking (yes that is still the current role of many women here). Sometimes I wonder where you draw the line. It's a friendly scrimmage but should the goal keeper be allowed to hand the ball to another player, who takes it in her hands and punts? Should you be allowed to dribble away at a place kick? I thought you had to pass the ball first. It is all in fun and we don't worry about minor details like that, or shin guards or footwear. In the middle of the second half (I think it was about 8-0, us) one of the best players from the other team dropped back by her goal and started taking off her shoes. I thought she had a rock in or shoe or something, until she took off the other. Off went the socks as well. I heard her say, "I can't play with these." Assuming she meant the socks or shin guards. Nope, she meant the cleats. The next thing I knew, she was playing barefoot amidst girls in cleats, converse and tennis. That's the campo for you and that was another, "Oh yeah, I'm here" moment. During the same game, several girls just sat down on the field. J-rod would have had a conniption!
The futbolito final and carnaval in the park after was cancelled/postponed because they didn't have the prizes (soccer balls, trophies, $$$). I don't know if the mayor's office didn't leave them available, the trophies weren't made in time or someone pocketed the money. I have no idea but the event hasn't happened yet. You would think they had time to prepare, the tournament started in around the first of October. Teams of 5 (including keeper) play soccer on a cement court (basketball size) with a miniature ball. You should see the slide tackles these guys will do on the cement! The semi-final was intense and I was looking forward to seeing the final. Most of the town was ready. There isn't much of a night life in Talanga, therefore, when there is something to do, people are ready and just about everyone goes. Canceling the futbolito final meant a bunch of people were out, ready and now had nothing to do. I stood in my doorway watching foot traffic and talking to a neighbor. Bello lay at my feet waiting for someone to make the move toward the door so he could bark at them and protect me. He is such a good vigilante. Five guys walked past my house. Across the street they stopped, 2 guys ran back toward the park. That was weird. No reaction from Bello. The neighbor said they are ladrones (translation: robbers, or generally mischievous bad people.) A few minutes later, the others turned to head back toward the park (the direction from which they came.) As they passed my house, Bello started barking up a storm and ran toward one guy. I had to blink, make sure what I saw was true. Most people pick up rocks and cock their arm, ready to throw. This guy pulled a gun. He pointed it at the dog threateningly as I called Bello back to the house. Was the dog supposed to be afraid of the gun pointed at him? Seriously Dude, what good is that going to do? I guess you are ready if he lunges or bites. Thankfully, the dog came back to me, the guy turned and continued down the street, gun hidden away in his pants again. I think the neighbor was right, they probably are ladrones. I wonder if that is why Bello randomly freaks out at certain people walking by. Are they carrying guns? It's quite likely; many men here are packing heat. Who knows, but I hope I never see my dog held up again, I guess its better him than me.

Yes, I survived Christmas. The Danish Pastries were a hit. My host mom even asked for me to teach her to make them and the family joked about selling them. I spent both the 24th and 25th in my site, passing in and out of the host family's house. It was rather uneventful and didn't really feel like Christmas. I did enjoy one of the best meals I have had in quite a while: baked, stuffed chicken that actually had meat on the bones! WHOA!

Happy Holidays!
I was going to post pictures of making Nacatamales and Pin the Star on the Christmas Tree but you will have to wait because the computer won't let me upload now.

Tis the Season, or something...

Once again, Christmas is upon us and I am completely confounded by it. It just doesn't feel like Christmas. While I hear (at least parts) of Washington are experiencing the coldest temperatures in almost 20 years, I am getting sunburnt and impatiently awaiting my first scuba diving experience. Without snow, cold weather and being assulted by holiday sales, it just doesn't feel like the season is here. Although I appreciate the peace that comes from the lack of advertisements (not that they don't exist here, I am just isolated from them, no tengo TV), I miss seeing streets of houses lit up with little white lights and Christmas trees poking through windows. Many people here have Christmas trees but due to serious deforestation issues, most of them are artificial. Inside some houses it does feel a bit festive but since many people keep their doors, curtains and shutters closed preventing me catching a glimpse of their "arboles navideños". There are periodic decorative encounters that make me laugh. For example, the giant inflatable snowman hanging from a second story window (multiple stories in and of themselves are quite uncommon). The enourmous Frosty lasted about a day before losing all its air and hanging limply. Here, instead of hanging lights the common activity is to paint your house. I am amazed how frequently people change the colors, inside and out. My neighbors house is change from green bricks to yellow, the mortar is still white.

To bring a little American tradition to Honduras, I decided to make paper snowflakes with my summer school kids. I agreed to teach English to a group of 2nd-going-on-3rd graders during vacation. We skipped the English yesterday to make Christmas cards and snowflakes. Even though they can't imagine real snow, they loved cutting up paper to make pretty designs. Tuesday we are having a party. That means I have to come up with Christmas activities and make gingerbread cookies. Although I am not a huge gingerbread fan, it's too traditional to pass up. (And I don't want to buy food coloring and put the time into red and green frosted sugar cookies. The more intricate types, the ones I like, either would not be appreciated or ingredients are too hard to find.)

As for actual Christmas, I plan to dine at midnight (as is tradition) with my host family on the 24th and fulfill my family tradition by making Danish pastries for breakfast with them on the 25th. Really, it's all just keeping myself busy until I can meet Marta at the airport on the 26th.

Thing I love: the ridiculously popular trend of drivers putting the seatbelt over one arm or across their lap but not buckling it. Occassionaly, this is due to broken seatbelts but the majority of the time, that does not seem to be the case. They police enforce the lax seatbelt law from time to time but most people don't want to wear them.

Thing I hate: cuetes (firecrackers), still.

photos: girls in my English class making snowflakes and christmas cards, 6th graders performing at graduation, and my favorite sign in Talanga, a paper on the side of a house stating, "for sale information"; I think they mean the house is for sale but it's still funny (and it's been there as long as I have). Also, a few from the waterfall near Lake Yojoa.