2:00pm December 24 I realize it really is Christmas. The weather and not doing any Christmas shopping allowed me to avoid this reality until this moment. I was “helping” my old host family set up their nativity scene. [Side note: Notice that Baby Jesus is bigger than Mary, Joseph, the Wisemen on their camels and pretty much everything else, except the chimney which seems unnecessarily large. Also notice the people below are bigger than the houses. Scale and continuity of the characters/figures don’t seem to be issues. I have seen several others including a large community display with the same issue. Oh, and yes, you do see a wedding, plastic tractor and match box cars. I don’t get it but of course I told the family I liked it.]

I figured Christmas would hit me eventually. Despite several invitations, I almost spent Christmas day alone. I realized a few days before that in all likelihood I would remember that it really was Christmas and yes, I really was spending it alone doing absolutely nothing. Fearing the resulting depression and loneliness, I intruded on the Catholic missionaries for Christmas dinner. I know, for the cultural experience, I probably should have accepted one of the other invites, but honestly, I didn’t think I could handle watching another family’s celebration. We did have Hondurans in our midst (the mission director married a Honduran), so I think that covers the cultural bases. The 24^th is the big day of celebration here so I didn’t seem to miss anything.

Before watching the creation of the nativity scene, I helped my host family make nacatamales, a Christmas tradition for many people here. Nacatamales are filled with rice, potatoes, meat (usually chicken), a raisin, green olive, a piece of pig skin (not joking and I wish I had not discovered that) and whatever else the maker would like to add. They are wrapped up in banana leaves and boiled for 2 hours on a fagon (fireplace). They take the entire day to make and we made 50 tamales! Apparently, that was minor compared to the 70+ my family usually makes. Almost a week later I am still being offered tamales since everyone makes plenty to give away and now everyone is trying to pawn them off on someone else. The tamales are good, but I couldn’t eat them breakfast lunch and dinner for a week straight. You also have to be a little cautious when you eat them. It is a common practice here not to take the meat off the bone or remove large chunks of fat when putting them in foods such as tamales, taquitos, etc. I have also eaten fish soup here, with an entire fish, head to tail, sitting in a bowl of broth and vegetables. Priorities. Taking meat off the bones just isn’t high on the list here. The first time I bit into a bone when I expected rice and small pieces was a shock. Now I know to pay attention to what I am eating and break it up with a fork a little before diving in.

Other than the montage nativity scenes and blaring heat, Christmas isn’t too different here. There is however, a traditional midnight meal and countdown to Christmas day on the night of the 24^th. For some reason this was left out of every discussion I had with people about Christmas celebrations. I learned about the midnight meal about an hour and a half before it happened. Oddly, when I asked the missionaries if they knew about the midnight meal, they responded “we found out last night, when we were served.” Some families give presents on Christmas day, some wait until January 6 when the wisemen arrive, others forgo gift-giving due to the cost or do a Secret Santa exchange. I suppose giving gifts on the 6^th makes more sense considering the religious significance of giving gifts at Christmas.

Over the last month I heard many of the same Christmas tunes (often in English but not always) I always hear. Although the songs were the same, the frequency was MUCH lower, I never felt bombarded by “holiday joy”. Christmas music was actually a bit of a rarity. One Christmas song, then back to the regeton. Maybe the lack of Christmas music added to the “it’s not Christmas” feelings. I remembered Christmas approaching when I entered business or homes and saw the fake trees decorated. I forgot again the minute I left.

At times, spending Christmas away from my real family was difficult. The funny thing, is that if I had been home, I wouldn’t have done much differently, just with different people, I would have been bundled up. Ok, I probably would have played in the snow and would not have come home from church to find the power out, but celebration wise it wasn’t that different. I would have eaten a lot more if I had been home. I had enough, but there weren’t any Christmas goodies lying around to snack on for days or weeks on end (maybe a good thing). I miss Christmas cookies. I don’t miss any one kind in particular, just having the montage and choices begging to be eaten. I also missed Mom’s Danish pastries, a Christmas morning tradition. Instead, I had a cup of coffee and a nacatamale. Good, not the same.

I worried that talking to my family would be the most difficult thing to do. It turned out to be the easiest. I almost broke down talking to my favorite nephew. G-Man singing “Jingle Bells” is probably what I sound like singing in Spanish. A few words are quite clear, others are complete jibberish. Hearing an 18-month-old sing and call the dogs is precious, but when he says “Bye bye Lolo… I love you” I about died.

Despite the lack of Christmas shopping, I have kept busy. I painted my kitchen and a local carpenter made a table for my kitchen. Yea! I have a counter! You have no idea how easily I can be pleased. Granted, I still only have one uncomfortable stool so if I have guests, we will either have to stand or sit on the floor. Sorry for the long entry and rambling. I hope you had a wonderful Christmas (or holiday of your choice) and have an excellent New Year!

PS: Several people have asked me about my address. I have not changed it and haven’t yet decided whether I will or not. I can always pick up mail at the Peace Corps office in Tegus. If you send something there, I should get it. Si Dios quiere.

PHOTOS: My host mom making nacatamales. Host sister tying the banana leaves so they don’t fall apart while cooking. Nacatamales. The nativity scene, for scale, the chimney is wide enough for me to easily sit inside and the entire scene occupies half the porch, wall to wall.