Looking up

Things are looking up... I think. This may be repetative information for a few of you but, deal with it. Today I am off to an E-Zone coordinator training in Siguatepeque. Basically, it means that I will be responsible for passing information on to a few people in case of an emergency, say, a hurricane or strike. That gets me out of Talanga for a few days. Next week will be a little crazy as well. Thursday, with the help of Mateo, my Honduran counterpart coach and two moms, I will take my baseball team (pictured) to the national tournament in Tegucigalpa. We will stay at the Villa Olimpica until Sunday. Ally and Jeni are kind enough to grace me with a visit soon after and from then on, it is work work work. Or something like that.
It sounds like my toothbrush donation should arrive by the first of June (if not sooner) so I will finally be able to start that project.
I am also excited because a few minutes ago I heard thunder. That means the rains are coming and it won't be as miserably hot all day and night. Apparently the rain has started in some areas of the country but my site hasn't seen it yet.
What else is new... oh, apparently my dueña is having eye surgery (or something) so she is gone for the next few days. Her son, who is probably mid 30s and lives with her (fairly normal in this society) decided to point out the fact that we were both alone last night and invited me to watch TV (since he knows I don't have one). Although the decision to decline was easy, getting him to go away was a little more challenging. Oh dear latin men, always trying to make a move. (Yes, that is a generalization, decent men do exsist. Sometimes, they are just difficult to find.) I am just glad to be gone until after his mother's return.
I can't think of anything else new or interesting, although I am sure there is more, so until next time...

Top 10 things I never thought I would/could appreciate

In no particular order...

1 Ants: When a cockroach (or anything) falls from the ceiling and dies in the night, it is gone by morning. Although the ants are disgusting and annoying at times, they are great house cleaners.

2 Spiders: I still don't like spiders and the huge ones (like the one I literally shooed with a broom last night) still sort of freak me out, they eat the more immediately obnoxious mosquitos. Anything that eats mosquitos and other biting insects can live, at least for now.

3 Rain: After 6 years in Tacoma, I never thought I would say it, but I miss the rain. Here, the rain is a Godsend. Relief from the relentless heat. Rain means it might cool off at night and I might be able to sleep.

4 Long Life Milk: At first, I thought it smelled and tasted disgusting, even cold. After months of living without a refridgerator, I not only use the long life milk, more often than not, it is warm.

5 Corn Tortillas (other than as a taco shell): The fresh ones, right off the fagon... mmm. I'm learning how to make them so you can experience it when I get back.

6 Lack of A/C: I know it sounds weird, but I get so cold when their is air conditioning. Then, when you walk outside, you are BLASTED with the strong heat of reality. The shade and a nice cement building with tile roof work nicely. (Metal roof definitely NOT recommended.)

7 Appearing As If I Don't Understand: Yeah, sometimes it is annoying, but sometimes I use it to my advantage and pretend I don't understand, whether I do or not. Most often, this is when people are selling things on buses.

8 Cornflakes: I never liked them growing up. Being half the price of any other cereal and the healthier of three choices in my site (cornflakes, cocoa crispies or frosted flakes, occassionally), I actually enjoy them now (yes, with my warm, long-life milk)

9 Plastic Chairs: They are all I have. Although I sometimes prefer the cool tile floor, it is nice to have a seat to offer the few people who stop by my house. They work great to throw junk on as I walk in the door too.

10 Cold Showers: Ok, so in the "winter" it sucked. But now that the days are hot without relief. I actually prefer cold showers to hot. I actually feel refreshed, as opposed to a warm shower, which you exit and immediately start sweating again. This may change as rainy season returns, but for now, I think it may be the thing I appreciate most.

Photos: Earthday activities with the Catholic Passionistas (Mateo is pictured) in Talanga and Cantarranas' comida tipica festival (the following day). The cows are turning two gears which squeezes the raw sugar cane and pure sugar cane juice pours out the bottom, into the red bucket. If you add a little lime, it tastes just like limonada.

Sorry, not too much else to report. I spent the last few days with a fever but now have meds and I am starting to feel better. Still sort of busy and waiting for the flood. I am giving my first quiz to my English class or teachers this afternoon. Should be interesting, even though they are teachers, I hear they cheat... we will see. I have two versions of the quiz but don't plan on telling them that. If I get weird answers, I will know why. I don't really have an excuse for not updating this sooner, I just haven't done it. I try really hard not to use the "I didn't have time" excuse. We definitely over use it in the States because honestly, if we want to get something done, it generally gets done. "I didn't have time" is code for "I didn't prioritize it". Here, I have given up on the excuses. I have plenty of time if I want to use it. If I don't do something, I simply didn't do it. : )

Good books I have read lately: The Alchemist (quick read, great story) and I am just finishing A Million Little Pieces (originally supposedly true then it later caim out that it was a fraud and all made up. It is about a seriously addicted guy going through rehab and his internal struggles. I find it fascinating. I am curious where he got his information or if he pulled it all out of thin air.)

I am really excited at the prospect of an occassional break from the sunscreen/bug repellent smell. Thanks Trac!

I have no excuse for not updating this. I could lie and say that I have been busy but until this week there was absolutely no truth in that statement. The last week, however, was busier and the weeks to come should be more so. THANK GOODNESS. It is funny how quickly and drastically our perceptions can change. What would have been a very relaxed and boring day in the States is an extremely busy day here. The pace of life is so much slower and the minimum thinking required so much greater (operating in a second language makes everything more tiresome). The heat doesn't help either. I know all of you dealing with the bizarre weather that is a northwest spring are day dreaming of hot summer days. It isn't all a picnic. The weather here is hot. VERY hot. As I receive emails of a "beautiful 75 degree day" then reports of snow fall the following week, I sit and sweat. If possibly, I avoid doing anything between about 11am and 4 pm. It is just too hot to wander down the dirt roads of Talanga. Sometimes, it can't be avoided but snow sounds nice sometimes. Actually, we had a cold front the week before last and I froze all day. I hear it dipped to low 70's in another town of similar altitude and has been consistently reading over 100 during that afternoons. Just don't forget how miserable the sun and heat can be as you suffer through the unpredictability of spring. I miss the change in weather.

Things are finally starting to pick up here. I started my TEAM (Teaching English and Methodology) class, teaching elementary school teachers how to teach English. I have two classes, each meeting one day a week for 2 hours. It is amazing how challenging getting people to show up on time is. For the most part it is a cultural difference, but punctuality is a real struggle here. After three weeks, they have gotten slightly better but still haven't figured out that 4:15 is not 4:00. 4:15 is much closer than 4:45, but we are still working on that. You would also think that teachers would do their homework. Wrong. The first week, out of 2 classes and a total of about 20 people, guess how many did their homework... ZERO! You are teachers! All they had to do was bring a note saying they sang the alphabet song in English to someone. I told them they could use other teachers in their class if they would like. They didn't even fake it! The second assignment was much better and the majority did at least part. Eventually, these classes will make me very busy since I will visit and observe each teacher in their classroom twice between now and August. (Don't forget, school is only half day so most of them I have to do before noon. This is a much more time intensive task than it would be in the US.)

I am also still waiting for toothbrush donations to arrive so I can start a dental hygiene program with about 10 1st and 2nd grade classes. In addition, we are trying to organize a team to write a grant proposal for funds for a TOT about HIV/AIDS. Busy busy busy. Although none of these projects on their own is that difficult, when you have to go to the school 3 different days for the same purpose because some one didn't bring something or this teacher didn't show up today, it makes the whole process take a little longer. Sorry if I sound bitter, I don't feel that way, but sometimes the lack of efficiency can be frustrating and annoying.

I don't have many new photos but here are a few of a "modern dance" presentation from the colegio (high school) celebrating the opening of a new Dirección (Principal's office). A Honduran lawn mower (not an exaggeration but typically they use a machete), and yes, new photos (taken this morning) of my sanity, aka Bello. Luckily, he left ear has started to droop so he doesn't look quite so much like a bat. : ) There is an Earthday event in Talanga's parque central tomorrow and a "festival de comida tipica" in Cantarranas on Sunday so I will try my best to get some new pictures to post. Sorry if this was a bit of a rant, what can ya do...

Oh, good things! Last weekend, my friend Rachel visited my site! It was one of the first friends to see my site. She was amazed at how huge it is but it is still a very Honduran town. It was really great to have her there and be able to share my home with someone who understands both Honduran and Peace Corps culture. I actually had two guests this week as I hosted another volunteer who was in the area helping with a medical brigade. Thank goodness for visitors! I have been told by more than one Honduran lately that it is "good to have friends". Yes, I know, but it's hard to make friends with people sometimes. : )

Thanks Marta

Marta (my sister) made a good point. The perception of saving for the future is what is missing here. Yes, I know, the US has a ridiculously high rate of credit card and other debt because: we "need" it now! From what I have heard, credit and debt is also terrible here. From my observations, I think credit cards are more of an issue in the big cities (Tegus and SPS). In smaller towns, people don't usually have credit cards, but many stores do run credit, the original kind where they keep a tab and you pay what you can when you can. It's really just the facad that is missing. The other day I made a cake with my old host family and had to bring the flour. the father didn't get paid Sunday, therefore, he wasn't a source of funding until the next time, hopefully in a few days. In the US, we can appear to have money and live somewhat comfortably without a cent to our names, it's really quite a phenomenon. Oh the beauty of credit cards, reliable pay checks, and supportive parents. Gotta run, love and miss you.

Bye Em!

So I am really bummed. My best friend here, Emily is heading back to the great state of Washington. Yes, she too is from WA. Although I rarely saw her because she lived in the west, almost in El Salvadore and Guatemala and about 12 hours from me, I will miss her very much. On the plus side, It should be fairly easy to track her down and stalk her when I eventually make it back home myself. Initially, I was just sad that she was leaving. As I headed to Tegus today to say goodbye, I felt jealous. I am still appreciating my experience here but thinking of all the things she gets to return to is a little dishartening. She can hang out with friends and family. Soon she will enjoy hot showers, flushing toilet paper, real cheese, she will no longer have to bleach her fruits and vegetables or worry about getting parasites from brushing her teeth. There are so many things I have come to accept as a part of everyday life here. I suddenly realized how nice it will be to have some of those things again.

Em, I know going back is a tough mix of joy and sadness but thanks for everything. You will be great! I will miss you.

29 Mar

Considering that no one spays or neuters their animals and most wander free, I am always amazed at how few conflicts you see. Common “western/northern” knowledge tells us that 2 un-castrated bulls are likely to fight over territory, as are dogs, roosters, probably pigs included. I have seen a few scuffles between dogs. Not surprising since I have also seen two dogs stuck together, often with a third trying to get in on the action. Each time I see two bulls tied together pulling a cart or several bulls with the cows and calves being herded down the highway (yes, these are daily occurrences), I am surprised that I have not yet seen a bull fight. I know, just because they may fight occasionally doesn’t mean they will do it all the time. Today, I saw my first “wild” cock fight. I saw the organized type in Yuscarán: betting, blades, owners sucking the blood out of the roosters’ mouths, the works. As I ran through town with Bello this morning, I saw two cocks fighting along side the road. What months ago would have struck me as expected (in a strange reality) was odd and unusual. I didn’t stick around for the outcome since I was in the middle of a run with the day only growing hotter, but quite possibly someone is out a rooster. Maybe it’s just on injury reserve. I guess that is a chance you take when you allow your chickens to graze freely on the garbage in the gutter. I can’t imagine that sort of diet provides the best flavor in the eggs, but it seems quite common.
Why are we so adverse to keeping two males in a single area? Are territorial fights that common or are we overly concerned with the possibilities (as we are with so many other things). I have always considered Americans over concerned and overly worried in general. Living in this country has made me aware of the extent to which we take it. Granted, I still don’t think a four year old should be sent to the pulperia to buy Coca-cola (the consumption is an issue for me as well), but in this environment of complete opposite, were by US standards people do not show concern for safety or possible negative outcomes. [Unless of course, you are talking about me being outside the house after dark, I have seen plenty of concern in that department. Everything is peligroso, especially to me.] A few weeks ago, I met a 5 year old boy who broke his arm falling out of a mango tree. I saw him sitting quietly on a man’s lap for about 15 minutes before his mother arrived, almost hysterical. I don’t know if she was more worried about whether or how she would get medical care for the visibly broken arm or for the pain the boy must have been in. Either way, where was she when the accident occurred that another man brought him to the Alcaldia to wait for her? Our priorities for worry intrigue me. In the US, we are so overly concerned that something bad will happen or that someone will file suit we barely allow are kids to be kids. Here, parents seem so unconcerned with potential hazards that kids run wild in the streets. In a completely different way, the kids are left with so much freedom and responsibility (for themselves, siblings and sometimes jobs) that they too are hardly able to just be kids. Where does the bar tip and how do we find middle ground?
Much of the difference probably results from the general outlook on life. As a population, American are always thinking of the future (or trying/pretending to). How will this affect me in the future? Here, the future is rarely referred to and probably considered little. It is interesting how these different views clash with materialism. Americans want stuff. We work hard and save money so we can spend it later on vacations, clothes, electronics, all sorts of things. Here, people still want things. The walls may not go all the way to the roof, but there is a TV in the living room. Four kids may share a bedroom and the bathroom may be a dark concrete room with a bucket to bathe but there is a car parked out front or a nice stereo or fancy American products with instructions in English making is difficult to utilize. Again, how do we prioritize and find middle ground? I am as guilty of this odd prioritization as anyone. I still do not have a refrigerator, any sort of oven, a sofa or even a fan, yet I have speakers in which to plug my Ipod. If it weren’t for the generosity of my neighbor/landlady, I still would have nowhere to sit but the floor or bed. Life here is interesting…

I had a second odd encounter today. I ran into a neighbor on my street. Somewhat randomly, he asked where in the US I am from. Of course, I had to explain that Washington State is not the US capitol. He then asked me if my boyfriend was waiting for me in at home, another very common question. When I told him I do not have one, and don’t want one (how do you answer the “why don’t you have a boyfriend” questions?), I was informed that I need a man because it is “God’s law”. I have heard many times that I should have a boyfriend or husband. Usually, it’s followed by an offer and request to take them back to the States. Usually, I tell them I will take them and every other person in Talanga back to the US when I go. They don’t really like that response and usually say, “no, just me, no one else.” I try to entertain myself with the repetitive questions. “Needing” a man I have heard, that it is “God’s law” was a new one. How do you respond to that without insulting a person’s religion and/or culture? I prefer the “another person is too much responsibility for me” but I don’t think Hondurans are generally satisfied with that answer. Until I have a better one, that is my excuse for not having a man and/or kids. Either that or I saw I am too young but I am sure many people here think I have already missed my prime.

Favorite Bello moment yet: Yesterday, he ran into a glass door in the alcaldia. There is a logo on the door but apparently that is above his line of site. Poor guy! Generally he is quite smart but this was obviously not one of his brighter moments.

Sometimes, I forget how beautiful this country can be

I feel as if I am constantly apologizing for the long time periods between my updates. I guess that is a sign that I am integrating and becoming more comfortable in my life here. I don’t feel the constant need to either for comfort or to share the bizarre things I see. The weird things no longer seem abnormal. I’m not sure if that is a good thing or bad but I do still have occasional “Oh yeah, I am in Honduras” moments. This week, it was dealing with my ant infestation. I thought ants made nests in hills, not in my bedroom ceiling! I don’t battle one type of ant in and around my house, but at least three. There are the little black ones that look like the ones from home, but they bite! There are the tiny ones, almost invisible except for their movement and they are the big reddish-brown ones. These are the ones I had to use the Raid on. I started finding big winged ants around my house, mostly in my bedroom. After a day or two of killing the ones I encountered, I noticed them crawling from a crack in the ceiling. I itch just thinking about it. Following a quick fumigation, their numbers appear to be dwindling. I hope it is at least semi-permanent. I am not a big fan of spraying Raid in my tiny box of a house. Really, I shouldn’t complain because I don’t generally have major ant problems, just a few each day. Some people have major issues and can’t leave anything unsealed for more than 30 seconds. I am thankful I have not had to deal with that, YET.
Aside from insect mass murder, I am just returning to work again after a nice week long break. Easter is a much bigger deal here than in the States. Instead of having the Easter Bunny and a special Sunday dinner, the entire country shuts down Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Even the buses and taxis stop running. Schools close for the entire week so if functions as spring break for the entire country. The highly religious (generally Catholic) diligently go to church every day, avoid eating meat (especially pork) and enjoy soup made with dried fish all week. I think I have expressed my dislike for consuming hot soup in the heat of the day. Mix a little dried fish and you can count me out. I taste almost anything but passing the dried fish hanging in the streets the last several weeks didn’t exactly peak my appetite.
The not-so-religious who can afford it often take the opportunity to travel. Therefore, tourist destinations generally stay open except Friday, the holiest of days. The lack of transport does present a predicament so those wishing to leave town must do so early and most people return Sunday when the bus system resumes. Imagine traveling Thanksgiving weekend except the majority of traffic is made up of buses. That is when you pay the extra buck for a lujoso line which only sells as many tickets as there are seats. Otherwise, you may end up standing for a 10 hour journey. No thank you. Monday I experienced another, “what the heck is going on?” moment. Apparently, the day after Easter is celebrated by men dressing in women’s clothes and scary masks, running through the street playing music and trying to dance with/chasing down other men throughout town. One claim was that it is a celebration of the death of Judah, another said it is like dancing with the devil. Either, both or neither could be true. Supposedly the women dress like men and try to dance with other women the next day but I did not witness this one. That doesn’t mean it didn’t happen, I just didn’t stumble across it.
Now that Semana Santa (Holy Week) has passed, I can start some real work. I am currently busy preparing and waiting for materials. I am scheduled to start TEAM (Teaching English And Methodology) with the teachers from 3 schools in Talanga and aldeas. Frustratingly, we have not received the manuals from the Ministry of Education yet. I am also waiting for a donation of tooth brushes and toothpaste from Colgate Palmolive. The goal is to teach 1st and 2nd graders about dental hygiene. Maybe they will still have teeth by the time they should graduate from high school. I was also reminded that Earth Day (happy birthday Traci and Melissa) is creeping up very quickly. That means I need to come up with Earthy activities. It’s a good excuse to talk about deforestation and littering. In addition, I will give an HIV/AIDS workshop at the colegio around the same time. I am anxious to get these programs started and establish a routine. My schedule is pleasant in its freedom but frustrating an unmotivating at the moment. I need structure in my life. Poor Bello doesn’t know what’s going on or when I will come home. He is still growing ridiculously fast spends the hours either running tirelessly or sleeping. There is no middle ground. I spend significantly more on food for him than for myself. Good thing he is worth it. Maybe it’s my “sanity” that is worth it although “sanity” is relative. I consider running with my dog on a leash as I talk to him (and he responds) normal but most Hondurans probably think I am on something. (Don’t worry Mom, I am not on anything.)
Speaking of sanity… during training, several of us decided that by a year into service, every volunteer seemed to be a little off, many of them admit it. Whether the cause is experiencing a new level of boredom, frustration, loneliness and entertainment or a culmination of all the changes we go through, I don’t know but I think I have tipped the scale. Hopefully I can claw my way back to “normal” someday.

Photos, Honduran sunset and beach, School kids joining with the community to protest illegal logging (I don't think you can see the police in full riot gear), and Escuela Juan Lindo kids celebrating Dia del Padre